El Buen Camino

Day 8: Estella to Los Arcos

The famous "fuente del vino" (wine fountain) at the winery of Irache.

Friday 6th October: Left 7:30am arrived 11:10am ( 21ks - 3hrs 40mins)

Some lovely scenery today, especially between the Monerterio de Irache and Villamayor de Monjardin. The last 10ks or so saw some long straight roads between ploughed, open fields. But good countryside for reflection.

Just beyond the Monastery of Irache. Soon after this point Peter and I walked on together to Los Arcos, leaving Dennis to walk his own pace. He arrived not far behind us.

Between Irache and Azqueta, 30 minutes or so into our morning's walk.

Another view along the same path.

Leaving behind the village of Azqueta below these rich fields of ploughed countryside, approaching the village of Villamayor de Monjardin.

A medieval covering over a spring just outside the village of Villamayor de Monjardin

The Church tower of Iglesia de San Andres as we approach Villmayor de Monjardin.

Half way between Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos. A long track through undulating coutryside.

Another kilometer along the track, an umistakable arrow points us off onto another road.

The gothic cloister beside the Church of Santa Maria, Los Arcos.

(Left click on mouse to see the hidden garden gnome!)

Enjoying wine, cheese, rosted capsicum and local bread on the balcony of our lodgings. Not much of an alternative in Los Arcos, but the local priest gave us all a special pilgrim's blessing at the end of the evening mass, and the locals were very welcoming. Besides Santiago de Compostela, this was the only time we actually received such a welcome as pilgrims.

Day 9: Los Arcos to Viana

The moon treks its path towards the western sky, fleeing the morning light.

Saturday 7th October: Left 7:20am - arrived 10:30am ( 18.5ks - 3hrs 10mins)
A moon-lit beginning to the day. I walked ahead of Peter and Dennis. A nice enough walk, with the main attraction being the village of San Sol.

Early morning sunrise.

Approaching the village of San Sol, about 6ks into the morning's walk.

Leaving the village of Torres del Rio, about another km on from San Sol.

Ploughed fields on the way to Viana.

Caught napping in the afternoon on the edge of the small plaza of Viana.

The Church of Santa Maria where we attended a funeral mass in the plaza of Viana. There was little happening on a Saturday morning in Viana, but the afternoon saw the plaza spring to life. There was also an impressive hotel which served good meals, though the same could not be said for the place at which we stayed. We spent a pleasant afternoon observing the comings and goings of the locals as they took up their positions for the attendance of the funeral, which was large to say the least.

Day 10: Viana to Navarette

On the road to Navarette, leaving the region of Navarra and entering the region of La Rioja, a famous grape growing and wine producing region.

Sunday 8th October: Left 7:45am, arrived 1:30pm ( 22.2ks - 5hrs 45mins)

A long day's walk, though not so long in distance. We wandered along, stopping in Logroño for a coffee, and bought a couple of bottles of wine, cheese and bread. We had decided to enjoy the walk and find a nice spot for a pic nic. The only trouble was that for a number of kilometers beyond Logroño, the walk was very much designed for the enjoyment of locals. So finding an isolated tree among the fields of Spain become a difficult search. A warm day made this seem a longer walk than it really was.

Early morning.

Showing off the new walking staffs that were bought at Puente La Reina.

Sites set on Logroño.

Knocking down almonds.

Heading to Logroño, sporting a beret from Estella.

Logroño - an impressive city, but we arrived early and stopped long enough for a coffee and the purchase bread, cheese and wine for our lunch on the walk.

A field of wild thyme and grapevines near Alto de la Grajera, where we stopped for bread, cheese and a bottle of wine.

Entering Navarette. Ahead of us is Adeline, a girl from France whom we met on the evening at Orisson on our first night. The idea of stopping for the picnic was not such a good one - a bit hard to get going again, and carrying the two bottles of wine over 10ks proved a bit detrimental to the back. Besides, we only drank one and ended up leaving the other at the place we stayed in Navarette. We stayed at very nice albergue though, managing to remain only three in a four bed dorm. We had a nice slow lunch, a bit of a nap, then an interesting evening at the old plaza. Here we met Christiana and Quentin who came from near the village of Ars in France. They spoke enough English to convince us that we should follow them up when we finished the Camino and go to Ars - a long time wish of my own. We enjoyed an extremely good evening meal at the local pub, preceded by fantastic bocadillos, and were entertained by an outrageous waitress throughout the meal.

Day 11: Navarette to Nájara

The remains of an ancient monastery which is now the gate of a cementery on the way out of Navarette.

Monday 9th October: Left 8:10am, arrived 10:30am ( 17ks - 2hrs 20mins).

I walked alone today, a walk marked by vineyards and and workers arriving to pick grapes. Only one village, Ventosa, broke the journey, with the hill of Alto de San Anton breaking the landscape.

Scenery typical of the camino this day.

Between Navarette and Nájara. An age old custom ion the Camino of piling up rocks upon rocks. Whether originally to act as a guide for others or something else, I am not sure.

Approaching Ventosa, about 8ks into the walk.

Nájara was a nice enough little village, with a nice river separating the more developed town from the older village. Unwittingly we had booked into an impressive enough hotel, but that proved to be the most memorable highpoint of the town.

Day 12: Nájara to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Tuesday 10th of October: Arrived 11:00am left 7:20am (21ks - 3hrs 40mins)
We took a wrong turn leaving in the dark and walked at least half a kilometre if not more up and down the side of a small mountain. An enjoyable walk for the most part, similar to yesterday. Mostly open fields of grape vines. Quite misty for much of the walk, but quiet and pleasant.

The grape vines of Rioja in the morning's mist

Crucero just outside the village of Azofra, just over 6ks into today's journey

A long straight road between Azofra and Ciruena, about 12ks along the road.

And the mist seems to thicken...

And thicken..

The Church of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

I arrived and waited 2 hours for Peter and Dennis, tracing up and down the streets becoming more and more concerned about them. Finally common sense told me to go to the convent we had booked into. Sure enough they were there. I was extremely relieved to see them, though surely communicated to them more of my exasperation than concern after so much waiting and uncertainty. This was a lovely old village full of wonderful history, and here we enjoyed the most memorable meals of the camino. I must also admit that during my tiem of anxious waiting for the boys I was able to sit and drink a couple of cool cans of beer!

Day 13: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

Very early morning start.

Wednesday 11th October: Left 7:30am arrived midday (4hrs 30mins - 22.5ks)
We walked together today, a walk that covered some very impressive countryside and was most enjoyable.