The camino between Manjarin and El Acebo became very like the glens of Scotland. One could sense the closeness of the land of the celts, Galicia.

The village of El Acebo. The morning is clearing and promises a very nice day.

The rain has passed, and on the descent into the village of El Acebo, the rainbow which has accompanied me for the past 10 minutes directs my way.

The main street of Riego de Ambros.

Two ancient chestnut trees outside of Riego de Ambros.

Descending from Riego de Ambros, about 4 ks from Molinaseca.

The beautiful little village of Molinaseca. Our hostal was just on the other side of the river.

Arriving at Molinaseca after a challenging day's walking.

A few quiet beers at the edge of the lovely river at Molinaseca. We enjoyed a nice place to stay as well, right on the river.

Feeling quite happy after a memorable day of walking.

Day 29 Molinaseca to Cacabelos

The Medievil Castle of Ponferrada, under renovation.

Friday 27th October: 23 kilometers. Left 7:30am arrived 12:00 midday (4 and a half hours).

A beautiful sunny day, but a long urban stretch through Ponferrada which, except for the old centre, was uninspiring. Despite that, this was a most enjoyable morning of walking which we did together.

The main plaza of Ponferrada, about 8 kms into the morning's walk. Still early, so we kept on our way.

Columbrianos, about 13 ks from Molinaseca and 10 ks from Cacabelos. A lovely little restored Church greets the pilgrim, with the local cemetery in the foreground.

Rich fields occupied by market gardens as we approach Fuentes Nuevas where we will stop for a coffee, and a shot of anis (aniseed liquer), highly recommended.

Fuentes Nuevas, about 15.5kms along the road. An elderly French Brother welcomed us warmly into the Church he was caring for.

At the Cooperativa de Vinos just outside Camponaraya, with about 5.5kms to go before reaching Cacabelos, we sampled the wares. Worth a sip, but we were not going to lug bottles with us.

The beautiful countryside of El Bierzo, another famous wine producing area of Spain.

Pete, sporting the "Mark Knoffler" look, indicates the sign post about 2 ks out of Camponaraya.

Between Camponaraya and Cacabelos we pass through the Region of El Bierzo, another famous wine producing area. Pleasant rolling fields filled with autumn coloured vines.

Vine leaves turn red, yellow and bronze
As nature takes her rest.
Beneath the warmth of an autumn sun

We walked through fields of gold...

Getting close to Cacabelos. A really lovely walk today, and Cacabelos would prove to be a very enjoyable resting place. Pleasant village, and very pilgrim friendly. Beers in the small plaza, warm sun, and a haircut and beard trim. This for me was one of the most beautiful day's of walking as far as country side and chatter along the way went, plus place of rest.

Day 30 Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

Day 30: Saturday 28th of October.
Cacabelos to Vega deValcarce (25ks). Left 7:30am arrived 12:45pm (5 hrs 15 mins)

We walked together again today, a walk which seemed long, though not difficult, as we strode comfortably and stopped for a coffee plus chat with a couple of fellow pilgrims at Trabadelo. A slow sunrise and lovely countryside throughout made it a memorable walk, despite the constant presence of the modern motorway which intersected the camino at various points.

Sunrise

Signs of an intruder on the Camino

The promise of a beautiful day

Approaching Villafranca, about 8.5kms into the walk, walking off the "good cheer" of Cacabelos, and sporting new haircuts and beard trims.

Entering Villafranca de Bierzo, la Iglesia de Santiago. A most interesting town through which we passed quickly enough. It's architecture and history I would not swop however for the warmth and friendliness we had experinced in Cacabelos.

Leaving Villafranca as the sun rises over the hills.

Between Villafranca and Pereje, about 10.5kms along the camino today, beautiful fertile floadplaines full of fresh vegies. An ideal spot except for the new motorway up above which reminded us that modernity was never too far away from us today.

The older backroad which wound itself around, beside and under the new motor-way which accompanied us for much of the walk this day.

Trabadelo, 17 kms of walking done, we stopped for a coffee on the walk.

Part of the backroads between Trabadelo and Vega del Valcarce, around the 20kms mark of the day's walk. We experiences beautiful weather this day.

The donkey to whom I fed lettuce in Vega de Valcarce, and with whom I had a friendly chat for half an hour.

My friend in Vega de Valvarce who offered me wallnuts that he had collected this afternoon.

Autumn colours surround a field on the edge of Vega de Valcarce. After we had arrived and showered we went down to a little restaurant on the edge of town for a couple of beers and greeted a number of pilgrims going past. A couple stopped to share a beer with us, including Camilla. Camilla informed us that Rose had decided to go back to Leon this day. We had seen them talking at a rest point on today's journey. We had a lunch of rabbit which, whilst only fair, was a fitting dish considering the countryside. Later we had a couple of beers in a spot more frequented by pilgrims and locals, but it lacked the normal "off the track" atmosphere of other camino watering holes. We were entertained by a bloke going through a mid life crisis wearing tight leathers and in command of a beautiful Triumph motor bike. However, he failed dismally in his effort to impressed the ladies present!

The Church of Vega de Valcarce where we celebrated Mass. Not an inspiring liturgy. An early night, as many had mentioned that the first 12Ks of tomorrow's walk was a challenge. Many were not staying in Vega de Valcarce for that reason, but tackling the assent this same day.

Day 31 Vega de Valcarce to Alto de Poio

Day 31: Sunday 29th of October.
Vega de Valcarce to Alto de Poio 21 ks. Left 6:30am arrived 11:30pm (5 hrs).

A dark walk until Laguna de Castilla. A fair hill, then more afterwards. I waited at O Cebreiro for Dennis and Peter, sipping a coffee and listening to the local gaelic dialect. Another coffee with Dennis and Pete, plus a chat to our Dutch friends, then we walked on together. A lovely walk across the hills, interspersed with celtic style villages. There was not much to greet us at Alto de Poio besides two hotels opposite each other, but the stay proved to be most agreeable.

We officially enter Galicia. Between Laguna de Castilla and O Cebreiro the official boarder marker of Galicia.

The first glimpse of O Cebreiro.

The sun finally shows itself after a 600 meter ascent over 8 ks from Las Herrerias up to O Cebreiro.

Creation gives praise to the God of the sunrise.

The beautifil little village of O Cebreiro, 13 ks on from Vega de Valcarce. Restored more for tourists than for pilgrims perhaps, but a more celtic little haven couldn't be found. I arrived and waited for Peter and Dennis. Our Dutch friends came past on their bikes, and were impressed by the fact that we were in shorts on such a cold morning: "You Aussie guys..." They were quite amazed at our progress, not being able to understand how, although we were walking and they were on bikes, we kept cropping up ahead of them.

In the autumn sun of Galicia.

The beauty of Galicia in autumn - between O Cebreiro and Linares.

Alto de San Roque, 1 km beyond Liñares. A statue to the Pilgrims.

Around about Hospital, 17 ks along the walk. This day a wonderful sense of being a part of the camino was to overtake me. The distance was no longer an issue - perhaps a sense that the camino was drawing towards its end was also at the back of my mind. But I began to lose my sense of expectation, and was happy just to be part of the moment and the beauty of Galicia.

Small hamlets with their tiny oratories were to become a feature from this part of the camino on. Sometimes the little chapels were out in the countryside on their own. So typically Celtic, and breathing an air of ancient and traditional faith.

The top - Alto de Poio. We sat and had a beer, then a quick shower. Looking down from our window we spied our Dutch friends cycling towards us, and so we gave them a big cheer and a wave. They were clearly surprised to see us already there - we went down and had another beer with them before lunch.

Alto de Poio.
The beauty of Galicia. And we are blessed with beautiful autumn weather. We had been warned that at this time of the year we could have gale force winds walking through this part of Spain, but our following days, despite crisp mornings, were to be superb.

Alto de Poio.
I sit on a stone fence along a country lane, overlooking beautiful rolling green coutryside. It is a warm, sunny, Sunday afternoon in autunm. My face feels warm, and we have enjoyed a wonderful and hearty lunch, finished off with a brandy and a conversation with two local priests. My knee is sore, and I am concerned that it may be serious, but the surrounding beauty calms my fears for the moment. I later join Peter and Dennis for a couple of pints of beer as we greet passign pilgrims who have decided to travel further this day. Henrich and Iris pass some time with us. We will meet them again in Santiago.