El Buen Camino: 2007

The Scallop Shell, the ancient symbol of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, and associated connection with the Apostle James (Santiago). A variety of meanings are given to the symbol, and each pilgrim is presented with a shell upon leaving Saint Jean Pied de Port. This symbol was to accompany us in many and various forms throughout the journey.

Day 1: St. Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

Dennis looks keen and eager to get going. Two hours later he wasn't to look quite as fresh and enthusiastic!

Friday 29th of September: Started about 4:00pm arrived 6:00pm (8ks - 2hrs)

Starting off - much sooner than we had thought from St. Jean Pied de Port.

We caught a bus from Madrid to Pamplona where we were caught up in the middle of a bomb scare at the bus terminal. The most upsetting thing was that we were not able to finish in peace the beers we had ordered! From there we set out by mini bus-taxi to St. Jean Pied de Port, planning to stay the night. However, the gentleman at the building where we went to get our credentials for the walk urged us to get on the road to Orisson as he knew there was accommodation and a meal at 6:00pm. Without time to think or to hesitate, we saddled up and set out on what was a beautiful sunny afternoon. We had read that it was the best idea to break the walk to Roncesvalles in this way and so, keen to be on the way, we set off on what was, after the first 3 kms, very much a straight up-hill walk! Just outside the town we in fact missed the sign pointing us upwards towards Orisson, veering instead to the left. After a few hundred yards a very kind local sent us back to where we should have been. A timely lesson regarding the need to be alert to signing along the Camino. I managed to arrive ahead of Dennis and Peter, then returned to meet them about 1.5ks from the hostal and continued on with them. With no time to shower or clean up, we were sat down at a communal type meal where we met Malcolm and Kim from Perth. Very friendly, though we were each still a little over-awed by our "baptism of fire" as far as the Camino seemed at this stage. Not a great sleep in the small dormitory, but very good dormitory style accommodation, and a great feed.

Day 2: Orisson to Burguete via Roncesvalles

The morning sunrise at Orrison.

Saturday 30th of September: Left 8:30am arrived at Rocesvalles at 11:40am, and at Burguete at 12:00 (19ks - 3hrs 30mins).
I rose early, as sleeping in a dormitory with about 12 others, male and female, didn't allow for a great night's rest. I awoke eager to get into the day, and was able to witness a beautiful sunrise over the Pyrenees. Before long a howling wind broke through the hills and trees, and a storm was on its way. It eventually abated however as the morning went on. We would have left earlier, but breakfast was included, and wasn't to be served until 8:00am.

Orisson, getting ready for a serious day's walk. There had been rain after the wind of the morning which was to accompany us for much of the walk, though the rain died down very soon after we started.

A glance backwards over the Pyrenees about 5 kms into the morning's walk. Such a beautiful sight, and one which was to remain among the most precious of the camino. It was hard to believe at this point that so many people had advised us to avoid this part of our journey.

La Cruz marks a change in the terrain of the camino as we leave the asphalt and approach the border of Spain. I arrived here about 10:00am, around 8ks into the walk.

Approaching Collado de Bentartea, about 9 Ks along the Camino this morning. Obviously still in France by the spelling of the name of the village towards which we walk.

The yellow arrows that were to accompany us for the whole camino.

Over the top! Peter with the view of Roncesvalles down in the valley. Today's destination has been sighted.

Meanwhile, between Roncesvalles and Burguete, I had decided to go ahead and organize our accommodation then return to the Pub at Roncesvalles to wait for Peter and Dennis. As that was an extra 4ks walk, I thought I deserved a beer, which turned into a couple as I waited about an hour for Dennis and Peter to turn up. I was pleased to see how good they looked upon their arrival, as Dennis had been a bit crook the night before. A beer or two more each, then onto Burguete where we were to run into Malcolm and Kim again and share the evening meal with them.

Day 3: Burguete to Lorrasoaña

Leaving Burguete, and feeling a lot more positive about the prospects of a day's walk.

Sunday 1st of October: Left around 8:00am arrived Biskarreta about 10:30am. After 11:00am morning mass, left 12:10pm and arrived at Zubiri about 2:15pm. Finally went on to Lorrasoaña, arriving about 4:00pm. About 24ks all up.

Heading for Biskarreta, a lovely morning for walking.

The Church at Biskarreta, 8.5 Ks into the morning's walk where we stopped for morning mass and made contact again with Malcolm and Kim. The sky was clearing for a really lovely day's walk.

Typical scenery of the early part of this day's walk.

Along the track around Lintzoain about 15 kms into the morning's walk.

Approaching the bridge of Zubiri, the village we had intended staying.

Overlooking the bridge at Zubiri.

Sitting on the bridge at Zubiri, waiting for Dennis and Peter to arrive. I arrived about 40 minutes ahead of Peter and Dennis, and after checking out the town, I decided we should walk an extra 5 ks to Larrasoaña.

Walkers in good form arrive at Zubiri. We were caught in some sort of local fun run come bike ride come hiker's day out for most of the second part of the day's walk. Dennis and Peter were obviously determined to beat the one behind them! The long pants were to survive hardly another day. From Pamplona on we were all in shorts.

Between Zubiri and Larrasoaña - lush, rich coutryside. We were to enjoy a memorable evening's meal about half a kilometer out of the village of Larrasoaña at a pub called El Molido.

Day 4: Larrasoaña to Pamplona

Leaving Larrasoaña.

Monday 2nd of October: Left 8:00am arrived 12:00 midday (15ks - 4hrs)

A leisurely walk this morning - most enjoyable.

At the village of Zuriain, a door that simply caught my imagination.

The beauty of the Navarra country side around Irotz, about 6ks along the walk.

The little chapel at Irotz.

Heading towards Trinidad de Arre, beyond Arleta.

Burlada, 3 kms from Pamplona, we took a break and enjoyed a pear and some juice. We missed a staging of the running of the bulls here by about an hour or so, as we were to find out after we arrived at Pamplona.

Day 5: Pamplona

Passing through the ancient gate of the City of Pamplona as we finish the fourth day's walk.

Tuesday October 3rd.
Fine food - a variety of "tapas" and a bottle of wine from the Irache vineyard which we will pass through after Estella. Pamplona proved a very enjoyable stopover, with more history and culture than we had time to take in. Here we were to meet with Malcolm and Kim for one final time on our journey.

Day 6: Pamplona to Puente La Reina

Beyond Pamplona, heading towards Zariquiegui, the windmills on Alto de Perdon just visible on the horizon.

Wednesday 4th October: Left 8:00am arrived 12:10pm (24ks - 4hrs 10mins)

A very nice walk through ploughed fields, and over the "windmilled hill" of Alto del Perdon, then through almond groves. I walked alone this day, a day partly overcast with splashes of sunshine, and not overly taxing save the muddy track on the approach to Alto del Perdon.

Looking back towards Pamplona, between Cibur Menor and Zariquegui, about 7ks into the morning's walk.

The portico of the Church of San Miguel at Zariquegui, just over 11ks of the walk this morning.

Monument to the Pilgrims at the top of Alto del Perdon.

A view from Alto del Perdon (Pardon Hights), about 14ks walking done and heading into the deep descent towards Uterga.

Camino with haystack near Muruzabal about 20kms of walking done for the morning.

Between Uterga and Muruzabal.

Obanos, 2.3ks from Puente La Reina, the point where the Camino Aragones meets the Camino Frances.

The virgen of the fields - Obanos.

The main street of Puente La Reina.

The boys looking refreshed after a shower and a cold beer. Peter and Dennis both bought walking sticks here (well, treated branches really)that were guaranteed to make walking easier. They were to be of assistance on some occassions to be sure.

The doorway of the Church of Santiago with its beautiful romanesque door.

Saint James in the Church of Santiago, Puente La Reina.

Day 7: Puente La Reina to Estella

Leaving Puente La Reina in the early morning light.

The beautiful medieval bridge of Puente La Reina.

Thursday 5th October: Left 8:00am arrived 11:45am (22ks - 3hrs 45mins)

Walked alone and arrived about an hour and a half before Dennis and Peter. I didn't stop at all though, and was paced by a young 18 year old by the name of Jan from Catalana. Lots of olive groves along the way, and original roman road for a part of the walk after the village of Cirauqui.

I enjoyed this walk very much.

The village of Cirauqui (which means "Nest of Vipers" in the local dialect) 7.5 ks into the walk. A lovely setting on top of a hill and surrounded by vineyards.

The remains of a roman bridge, still quite well in tact after so many years. The Camino was to follow the original roman road for a number of kilometers. An extraordinary sense of history accompanies one on this part of the journey.