Day 34 Portomarin to Palais de Rei

Between Castromajor and Hospital de la Cruz, around 12 ks into the morning's walk.
Day 34: Wednesday 1st of November.
Portomarin to Palas de Rei - 25 ks. Left at 7:20am arrived 11:30am (4hrs 10mins)
A lot of mist this morning, but pleasant walk. Headed out on my own this morning - more sun as the morning went on. As today was a public holiday, an organized fox hunt unfolded dramatically along the way. First the compound full of a hundred baying hounds who seemed already smell the scent of the unfortunate fox, then eventually the gathering of the riders on their sleek mounts, some miles on. Two entrances to the village left Pete standing waiting for an hour on his own, but we eventually found each other.
The coutryside near Gonzar, about 8ks into the walk.

Around Hospital de la Cruz about 12ks into the morning's walk.

Near Ligonde, about 16.5ks along the road.
Nearing Airexe, a bit over 1k on.
Black ravens upon the campanario, gazing down upon a field of death. On the edge of Airexe.
Chickens - the meal of the fox who now runs to save himself?


To Palas de Rei, between Airexe and Avonostre, with 3 or 4 ks of the morning's walk left.
A woman in Palas de Rei preparing Pulpo from small octopus which are boiled, then cut up and served with olive oil and paprika. A famous galician dish.


The little Church that greets the pilgrim on their arrival to Palas de Rei, and where credentials are signed.
Here we will celebrate the Feast of All Saints though, as in Latin America, this feast is celebrated in conjunction with tomorrow's, All Souls, placing the emphasis more on the dear and faithful departed rather than the righteousness of the Saints of God.
Michael McGlade, with whom I worked 4 years in Chile and with whom I was to visit after completing the Camino, was to die this day as I walked. In the evening we were to encounter Elise and Ray from N.S.W. and Paul and Dianne, also Australians. Very nice people with whom we shared a few drinks. We had noticed Paul and Dianne somewhere a few days before. As we worked out that we would all be in Santiago de Compostela about the same time, we agreed to meet at the Sunday mass, and to share lunch together afterwards.

Day 35 Palas de Rei to Arzua


Day 35 - Thursday 2nd of November.
Palas de Rei to Arzua 33.5 ks (6hrs - 7:00am - 1:00pm)
Casanova, 6ks out from Palas de Rei. Nothing much in the village, but a photo to pay homage to my own mother and her forebears.


Near Leboreiro, about 9.5ks into the walk, the path leads us onto a small, ancient bridge, over a stream and into another green field.

The goal of Compostela awaits us with more urgency, and yet the endless unknown which lies beyond every curve and hill and forest has become our constant companion. And each of us begins to sense that perhaps our arrival will in fact rob us of this faithful friend - this friend whose other name is "uncertainty", "expectation", "anticipation" - we might even call it "death" - which is not the end of the journey, but the great unknown.....present within us and before us, and whose power draws us on.



Near Furelos, 13ks along the camino, and 2ks from Melide where we were to feast on a small helping of Pulpos, a Galician delicacy(octopus cooked in olive oil and spices), to celebrate Dennis´s birthday.

At this point on the road, we chanced upon the 56 kilometer mark - which coincided with the age he was celebrating!